ok. i just erased an entire blog. damn it. starting again is very hard!!!!

ok. i arrived in marrakech after some difficul travels. i hadn’t been sure that i would go in the end, but the path opened up before me as if by magic. i found myself transported there so easily, it seemed silly that i had considered not going at all.

marrakech was the first stop and i got to my guest house – riad as they call them- grace of my driver, who walked me there. the streets were remarkably empty and i wondered if i had chosen a bad location for my riad – i had just booked it a couple of days before. i was received by a lovely young berber man named zaid, completing his first week of what they call a stage there. a kind of internship. he made me berber tea – basically mint with a large helping of sugar – and showed me the guesthouse: high ceilings, roof terrasse, and my room which i would be sharing with three german girls. berbers are not muslim, but nomadic people who live in the desert and have their own religion and culture.

when i descended, i found another berber man named kudus there, rolling a spliff of what he called happiness. he told me and another recent arrival, a mexican man named ozziel, to feel at home there. and we certainly did. that night ozziel and i went in search of the only vegetarian restaurant in marrakech: earth cafe. we got derailed but eventually found ourselves having the loveliest meal i had the entire time i was in morocco: a veggie tagine with wonderful spices and a moroccan salad to start. a couple of men were there in traditional dress playing traditional music on the oud and a hand drum. they were supberb. 

when we left the restaurant, the streets were full of all the life that had been missing before. we surmised this to be from a combination of the heat during the day and the fact that it was ramadan, a time when muslims neither eat nor drink from 4 am to 7:30 pm. not even water, which seems quite dangerous in that heat! people stayed out all night, making noise, eating, celebrating.

the next day ozziel and i visited the old palace, mostly ruins now. it was a lot like the disney version of alladin and fun to imagine a chubby little sultan holding court there amid the flowers and pools.

the last day in marrakech i neeeded to take care of some travel plans and so didn’t leave the riad till it was time to head to the bus station with my german roommates, with whom i was taking the bus to essaouira. the day was very hot and we were excited about the thought of going to a beach town, where, by all accounts, the climate was much more bearable: 70s rather than 100s.

ok, i had thought to talk of essaouira here, but lost a bunch of time by erasing everything, so that will have to be the next installment!

love and miss,



One comment on “marrakech

  1. Ah! I wonder if you will be in an area with many Muslim people during Eid, the celebration that comes at the end of Ramadan. Sounds like you are having an excellent time, your writing makes me want to go travel!

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